Roger Vivier “Jardin à la Vivier” Spring Summer 2025

  • Publish date: Thursday، 03 October 2024
Roger Vivier “Jardin à la Vivier” Spring Summer 2025

The 18th century splendour of the Parisian Hotel de la Rochefoucauld-Dudeauville sets the scene for the Roger Vivier Spring Summer 2025 presentation Jardin à la Vivier, revealing a collection designed by creative director Gherardo Felloni that blossoms with ideas. Transformed into a wonderland of natural and architectural follies, the hotel particulier reflects indoors the grand traditions of French formal gardens - from their extravagant floral fantasies, to the festive intimacy hidden inside lavish pavilions.

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Gherardo Felloni’s perennial enchantment with the beauty of flowers, transmitted to him by his family, and the rigour of the ‘jardin à la française’ are ever-present, alighting upon shoes, handbags, gilets, millinery and jewels. Emboldened by lush carpets, and gilt furnishings, the four ornate salons of the hotel particulier create a sophisticated playground for the Spring Summer 2025 collection that glints with powdery pastel tones, bold metallics, natural shades of raffia and is infused with a theatrical sense that is central to Felloni’s visual universe.

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In the Jardin d’Été salon with its striped canopy, the Maison pays homage to its iconic buckle. Originally inspired by the shoes of marquises in French aristocratic courts, thanks to Monsieur Vivier, it now embodies the emancipated femininity of “La Parisienne”. This season the Maison is proud to present the Belle Vivier bag which debuts both in neutral tones and a palette of powdery pastels. An ideal city bag, this reinterpretation of travel luggage from the 1930s is handcrafted using three modular wooden forms, expressing the Maison’s savoir-faire in every single detail. To complement the blooming colours of this refined accessory, the emblematic Belle Vivier shoe, famously worn by Catherine Deneuve in Belle de Jour (1967), makes its seasonal entrance both as a new ballerina, deconstructed in supple Nappa leather, and as slingback in new joyful colour-block combinations of forest green, lilac purple, coral orange, and baby blue. To complete the collection, fine stripes add a mid-century seaside allure to flounced ‘RV’ monogram holdalls, Belle Vivier pumps, and the Viv’ Choc handbag in tufted cotton.

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Roger Vivier designs seem to blossom from every surface in the Salon Soleil, as natural materials like woven wicker and canvas are set off with opulent touches of crystals, kaleidoscopic sequins and rhinestones. Inspired by the outdoors, Felloni infuses craft through myriad designs, from crochet raffia slides and slip-on jewelled beach sandals to sculptural market bags and sweeping straw hats perfect for a sunny day. The gilet completes the Roger Vivier silhouette, embellished using delicate weaving techniques which combine raffia, wooden beads and crystals, creating dazzling statements through meticulous workmanship seen in action inside the gilded salon.

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In the Pavillon Théâtral jewelled peas, blueberries and strawberries from the garden become delicate parures in the masteful hands of a maître joailler artisan. Cut-out petals resembling broderie anglaise are scattered in 3D across strappy sandals and I Love Vivier cut-out pumps, or seen in laser cut leather on mary jane flats. The Marlene shoe, created by Roger Vivier in 1955 and appreciated by Marlene Dietrich, is now proposed as an embellished mule and a sporty sandal, in addition to the original high heeled sandal. Thanks to a wider, more stable semi-spherical heel in one case and a decorated rubber sole in the other, these new creations become nimble and lively. The pursuit of lightness in allowing women to wander free arguably culminates in the introduction of the Viv’ Up, a gravity defying sneaker. Crafted in padded lambskin Nappa in pale pink, yellow and mauve, this sneaker redefines airy softness thanks to a soft-thick sole.

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Finally, in Allée d’Or, the art of craftsmanship reaches new heights with the Jewel bag. A perfect combination of basketry and ‘maroquinerie’, this design requires the savoir-faire of a master saddler for the leather, an expert weaver for the wicker, and a master jeweller for the buckle and the handle. Along the golden palm trees, Gherardo Felloni’s laced-up roman sandals pay homage to Monsieur Vivier’s mask sandals. These archival designs created in 1967 were inspired by the founder’s sculpture collection and featured animals like lions as well as totems like smiling suns. The last part of the collection honours a dialogue, where natural fibres mingle with crystal buckled satin shoes and silver evening bags adorned in rhinestone beaded fringes.