NATURAL AEQUILIBRIUM Women’s Collection Spring Summer 2024

Equilibrium is the key word of the season, a value that permeates the entire Women's Spring Summer 2024 Collection, like a refined balance of opposing forces: minimal and ornate, addition and subtraction, aesthetics and functionality.

The equilibrium of a new contemporary luxury is thus dynamic, the result of a "rebalancing" of the wardrobe, where two souls coexist and reinforce each other: garments that are pure and simple, or garments that are special, unique and one-of-a-kind. The common denominator of all these forces is the attraction of a timeless style, the distinctive essence of Brunello Cucinelli's research, capable of renewing itself according to the stimuli and needs of the moment, while at the same time naturally preserving the identity of its aesthetic codes.

Sartorial Taste

In tune with the growing desire for order and cleanliness, sartorial quality offers a fundamental reference point for contemporary balance, expressing an apparent simplicity, a refined effortlessness. Through well-made constructions, each look and each garment expresses quality, authenticity and a renewed desire to dress with personality and without excess.

Beyond the confines of blazers and suits that are at the heart of the collection, the sartorial interpretation also spreads to outerwear, where drawstrings and hoods give way to trench coats, raincoats and overcoats with a timeless flair. The tidy appeal of matching sets is extended to biker jackets, shirts, utility jackets combined with skirts, trousers and shorts.

Natural Colours

The ideals of measure and distinction also live in the colours, which, in harmony with shapes and proportions, formulate the magnetic charm of monochrome outfits. The palette moves the eternal neutrals towards cool shades, as if dissolved in sea salt, with a summery, natural flavour. Touches of silver and oyster effect laminates add lustre to milky white, sand, rope and quartz greys, hay and concrete.

The presence of whites is fundamental, from pure and bright to shades of butter, wax and milk, while earthy tones inspire the deeper browns, which alternate with the classic interventions of dark brown and black.

Pure Materials

In the latest evolution of fashion, the calibre of materials responds to a perception that has been around for some time, nurtured by a desire for perceived quality and discreet, quiet luxury. Far from being casual, the fabrics have a clear and defined character: smooth and compact or airy and grainy, always with a precious look thanks to double effects, sartorial weaves, bold structures or the transparency of organza.

Even fabrics that are traditionally more informal such as linen and denim are presented with textures that enhance the lines of the garments. Stripes become more than just decorative, they become compositional and three-dimensional elements. Plant motifs and raw magnolia designs are materialised through embroidery, printing and weaving, enhanced by contrasts of natural colours or chiaroscuro transitions that soften the impact.

Reconfigured Shapes

Shapes make a clear break with previous trends. Lines and proportions are radically reconfigured. The shoulders of garments take on greater importance and become the focal point of silhouettes, oversized blazers borrowed from men's wardrobes speak of a new femininity, and waistlines are fitted or accentuated with belts or bustier-like pleats.

Combinations reinforce this reworking with an obvious attraction of opposites, where long & short, over & fitted coexist in a seductive balance. Oversized blazers, long trench coats, maxi cardigans and extra-long outerwear team up with shorts and culottes, while skirts suddenly lengthen to create new combinations with cropped sweaters, T-shirts and shirts above the waist.

Couture Knitwear

Knitwear experiments with combinations of stitches and different yarns to create special surfaces and enhance volume. Feminine points of light punctuate seemingly simple dégradé mesh motifs and the net stitch is reworked in a couture key through embroidery using natural fibres and techno raffia.

Special construction techniques and precious embroideries: OPERA knits are inspired by the infinite wonders of nature. Floral elements are spaced to accentuate contours or juxtaposed to blur boundaries, playing on contrasts and the alternation of loose and tight stitches.

Trousers and Skirts

Borrowings from the men's wardrobe are reinterpreted in a feminine key, in a formula of deconstruction and reconstruction that enhances the codes of elegance with a casual, light but precious touch. Trousers with a relaxed silhouette and masculine details alternate with styles with waists defined by corsets or small pleats.

Straight column skirts favour modern and attractive midi and maxi lengths. Iconic denim takes on a less street aesthetic and becomes a versatile fabric for trousers and skirts, with an elevated minimal style for the day or a more glamorous appeal for the evening in no-fade or sparkling silver versions.

Accessories

The philosophy of balance is completed with the accessories, where everything has been carefully studied with the intention of enhancing the shape, stripped of the decorative aspects, so that the sense of proportion, the value of craftsmanship and the wisdom of manufacturing convey the taste of genuine luxury.

Surfaces and textures are the defining features of the bags, which evolve in new volumes to formulate a versatile and everyday balance between aesthetics and functionality. In footwear, simple lines and new shapes with elongated square toes highlight the contrasting materials and shimmering hand-woven monili elements.