Chloé Fall 2023 collection

“My illustrious lordship, I will show you what a woman can do.“

Artemisia Gentileschi

The Chloé Fall 2023 collection marks the third chapter of the Maison’s research into climate solutions. While Winter 2022 focused on re-wilding—a progressive approach to conservation where nature is left to take care of itself—and both Spring 2023 and Summer 2023 explored the potential of fusion energy, this season Creative Director Gabriela Hearst and the Chloé team considered ways in which environmental issues are inextricably linked to gender.

Although climate change impacts everyone, as gender inequalities persist around the world, women and girls are disproportionately affected. According

to the United Nations Development Programme, four out of five people displaced by climate change are women. Yet research shows that women’s innovations and expertise have transformed lives and livelihoods, and increased climate resilience and overall well-being. In short, closing the gender gap
is an imperative climate solution.

This message informed the aesthetic references for the Fall 2023 collection, which centred on the Renaissance period and the Italian Baroque painter Artemisia Gentileschi. In 17th-century Europe, Artemisia defied the conventions of her time to become a successful artist; and one of the only to depict women as protagonists and agents of their own destinies. She used her paintings

to advocate for women and to upend misconceptions about the limits of their abilities.

The feminine power of Artemisia’s work is expressed through the collection’s bold but soft silhouettes and the unexpected use of contrasting fabrics. An off-the-shoulder dress cut above the knee with bishop sleeves is made from Nappa leather—a Modernist, graphic take on the Renaissance. The v-shaped waist, square neckline, and trumpet sleeves of a dress are contrasted by its

graphic knitted pattern and innovative, luxurious blend of wool and silk. Skirt and top combinations lend an optical effect to the curves of the body with their lattice motifs inspired by Renaissance architecture.

Chloé has developed a new lower-impact denim wash, which requires
up to 80% less water. Head-to-toe denim looks, including a long shearling-lined coat, have been crafted from a patchwork of three indigo hues. The denim
has also been used in designs with contrasting linen in khaki green
natural dye. In addition to the circular denim line, Adriano Goldschmied has also developed exclusively for Chloé a new corduroy using recycled cotton
for this season’s suiting.

Artemisia was especially adept at painting the flow and drape of fabric and
is renowned for her use of colour and contrast to achieve depth and drama
in her work. These skills are reflected in the collection in an oversized top with bell sleeves, flared skirt, dress, and a tracksuit, all cut from supple, colour-blocked leather in rich hues of brown, caramel, and coffee. A trench coat, skirt, and matching western-style shirt are cut from fuschia suede creating a sense of continuity with the Summer 2023 collection colour palette.

In the spirit of the Renaissance, which sought to surpass ideas of classical antiquity, Chloé has put an innovative spin on familiar garments. The puffer jacket is reimagined in recycled nylon or leather and has a Mediaeval silhouette with its virago sleeves and ruching along the seams. Broderie anglaise following the Maison’s signature scallop formation adorns a knitted skirt and sweater set in lower-impact wool pointelle, as well as a leather bomber jacket and matching skirt and a white linen dress. A puff-sleeved polo shirt dress in cashmere wool has seam work that emulates a corset. Two tweed styles have been combined to create a trouser suit with gentle lines complete with hand-painted ceramic buttons.

The Penelope bag, which debuted in the Summer 2023 collection—comes
in textural combinations of contrasting leather and suede in block colours,
and features artisanal touches, such as braided leather and a signature metal coin closure inspired by the Maison’s jewellery archive. The Arlene—a new bag line for Fall 2023—is defined by its bohemian aesthetic, rounded shapes and signature metal hardware.

Fall 2023 also sees the introduction of new footwear styles as well as
the development of existing ones. The Maison has collaborated with Teva

on a range of sporty sandals made entirely from recycled materials. Made dynamic by the use of multi-coloured ribbons, the designs take cues from rave culture, one of Summer 2023’s themes. There is a new lower-impact rain boot made in partnership with ACBC composed of bio-based TPU. The city lines
of leather footwear incorporate classic hardware used on the Marcie bag, while the heels of a sandal are capped in gold metal, complete with a buckle design from the Chloé archive. The lower-impact Nama sneaker continues to evolve with new colourways and design features.

There is synergy between the ready-to-wear and accessories with jewellery adorning the body reinterpreting the aesthetics of armour. Oversized hoop earrings are wrapped in leather and metal motifs from the Maison’s accessory line are encrusted in semi-precious stones. Garments fasten with gemstone cabochon buttons, imbuing them with their respective properties; a white knitted off-the-shoulder dress with capped puff sleeves for instance is studded with onyx along the leather trim for strength and steadfastness. There is

a new seasonal Rita line of hand-blown glass chilli pendants modelled on the Neapolitan Cornicello—a universal symbol of fertility and protection.

Chloé’s commitment to positive social impact

Ready-to-wear

Chloé continues its long-standing partnership with Akanjo, which spans more than 15 years. Akanjo – a World Fair Trade Organisation (WFTO)1 guaranteed social enterprise based in Madagascar that is committed to training and promoting craftsmanship – manufactured part of the ready-to-wear collection.

Bags and accessories

There are four partnerships with social enterprises this season for bags and accessories: Mifuko for the ninth consecutive season; Sarah’s bag for the fifth season; Made for a Woman for the first season; and Akanjo, who has worked on natural raffia accessories.

‘Mifuko’ means ‘pocket’ in Swahili. With fair pay and less dependence on unpredictable farming as a source of income, Mifuko empowers its artisans in Kenya and ensures no one is left with empty pockets.

Established in 2000, Sarah’s Bag provides a livelihood for over 200 underprivileged women through the creation of elevated handcrafted fashion pieces; empowering both the women who make them and the women who wear them.

Madagascar-based Made For A Woman works with local women artisans, most of whom have had a challenging life. They are committed to giving each of these women a job, guaranteeing an equitable salary, but also an opportunity to grow and empower themselves thanks to free language classes, family planning, healthcare, and a kindergarten for the employees’ children. Made for a Woman artisans made handwoven hats for Fall 2023.

Chloé’s commitment to reducing environmental impact

Ready-to-wear

We have worked to limit the environmental impact of our Fall 23 collection through the use of lower-impact materials (up to 59% of the product offer, in line with our annual commitment of 60%).
The list of what we consider to be lower-impact materials is available on Chloe.com and was previously approved by external experts. We published an updated version in May based on certification requirements as well as

a Life Cycle Assessment (LCA).

Handbags

More than 70% of the handbags leather offer is sourced from Leather Working Group2 (LWG)-certified tanneries. Chloé continues to develop its textile lines and will offer its first vegan-certified line.

Shoes

89% of the shoes offer is lower impact (% of SKUS). 85% of the shoes leather offer is sourced from LWG-certified tanneries and lower-impact tanning process. Always looking to improve our practices, we have been working step by step towards a way to make rainboots with a lower environmental impact. We have recently partnered with ACBC3 to create a new rainboot in bio-based TPU.

Fashion accessories

100% of the leather used on fashion accessories are sourced from LWG-certified tanneries. 100% of the silk scarves SKUs are made of organic silk. 100% of our socks and pareos SKUs are made with organic cotton.

A recent timeline of Chloé’s commitments to reducing environmental impact and creating positive social impact

October 2019 : Chloé signs a four-year partnership with UNICEF to launch
the Girls Forward initiative, which supports UNICEF’s gender equality programs.

June 2020 : Chloé launches the Women Forward. For a fairer future plan, shifting to a purpose-driven business model with the ambition of becoming B-Corp certified in 2021.

September 2020 : Chloé signs a partnership with the World Fair Trade Organisation (WFTO) to create the first-ever fair trade luxury collection that is ethically produced and environmentally responsible.

7 December 2020 : Chloé announces the arrival of Gabriela Hearst as creative director, the first Latin American woman at the helm of a French Maison with a powerful vision of more responsible fashion.

14 December 2020 : Chloé joins the Fashion Pact with a plan of reducing 25% greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions by product and offsetting 100% of GHG emissions across its supply chain by 2025.

4 January 2021 : Chloé debuts its partnership with Institut Français de la Mode and Conseil National des Arts et Métiers to create a Social Profit and Loss methodology to be shared as an open source.

21 January 2021 : With seventy percent of top management positions worldwide held by women, Chloé proudly signed the UN’s Women Empowerment principles.

8 March 2021 : Chloé launches its first fair trade luxury collection in partnership with the WFTO.

14 April 2021 : Chloé finalises the B Impact assessment with the ambition of becoming B Corp certified in 2021.

June 2021 : Chloé is part of His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales’ Sustainable Markets Initiative (SMI) Fashion Taskforce, which at the G20 in Rome in October 2021, committed to rolling out a Digital ID along with a circular data protocol.

5 July 2021 : Chloé publishes its environmental impact report for the first time (3rd edition).

October 2021 : Chloé achieves B Corp Certification.

November 2021 : Chloé becomes a member of Ellen MacArthur Foundation4.

February 2022 : As part of its commitment to greater transparency, Chloé publishes a list of its main partners, from finished goods and raw material suppliers and licensees, to logistics and packaging suppliers.
June 2022 : Chloé publishes its first sustainability report.

October 2022 : Chloé introduces its Vertical Project, a range of products with a unique digital ID that enables users to trace a product’s journey from field to finished product.

October 2022 : Chloé introduces the Women Forward Partnerships – NGOs and social enterprises working tirelessly to close the gender gap.

December 2022 : Chloé finalises its first assessment on Biodiversity using GBS methodology.

References

1. The World Fair Trade Organisation (WFTO) Guarantee System is an international verification model focused on social enterprises that put the interests of people, artisans, and the planet first. They impact one million livelihoods, 74% of whom are women.

www.wfto.com

2. The Leather Working Group (LWG) is an international organisation made up of stakeholders across the leather supply chain, working to promote best environmental practices within leather manufacturing and related industries. www.leatherworkinggroup.com

3. ACBC is a BCORP that supports footwear and accessories premium brands in their sustainability transformation process.
www.acbc.com

4. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation is a charity that develops and promotes the idea of a Circular Economy, which is designed to eliminate waste and pollution, circulate products and materials, and regenerate nature. www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org